Ashwin and Talaiven are long time coconut sellers at Flacq market place. Each one occupies a stall standing almost cheek by jowl. They are the interface with the hundreds of buyers going up and down.

A bus to Flacq Market leaves every half an hour. We’re told this our first full day on the island during hotel orientation and reminded often at reception. The fare is 30 rupees per person one way and ...